* Raf Simons 2012-2013 Fall/Winter meanswear collection by style.com
MENSWEAR CREATIVE REVOLUTION
RAF SIMONS 2012-2013 FALL/WINTER MENSWEAR COLLECTION
TEXTS BY FUNG HIUYIN 2012. 2. 21
RAF SIMONS NO DOUBT IS THE NEW GENERATION OF GRUPS IN FASHION. HE KEEP SAYING "NO" TO THE MAGETREND OF MENSWEAR AND OPTS TO STAY IN HIS DREAMLAND. ALMOST EVERYONE CITIED THAT HE IS THE FUTURE OF MENSWEAR, YET HIS DESIGN IN 2012 S/S COLLECTION WAS A TRYING PERIOD IN HIS BUSINESS MADE HIM A LITTLE BIT RUNS IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION THAT THE COLLECTION BECAME TOO STABLE TO WEAR. NOW, HE IS BACK WITH THE NEW COLLECTION TITLED "RUN FALL RUN" - IMPLIED HE WILL KEEP GOING WITH HIS MEN' S WAY.
It is time to add more interesting elements to men’s ensembles for this modern generation. Raf Simons handed in a petty good transcript and youth power was come back at the Paris Fashion Week. When you first set eyes on his latest men’s collection for Fall/Winter 2012-2013, it’s pretty innocence and extraordinary. Then, when you see the models on the runway, suddenly it feels like you were still in school time that everything should be a size too big so you can grow into them.
In fact, college boy look was not a new term in fashion. But Simons tried to refresh the meaning and pushed his brand to a more extreme and personal point which can be found in the merging of the classic, modern and quirky details – from head to toes, Colors, silhouettes, materials and even textures … Simons was unafraid of new balance with an avant-garde mind who was realize challenging ideas with special tailoring. The oversize silhouettes and tailoring-wrong-made-right pieces were under the watchful eyes – all the “inconsistent” penetrate a new school with a little bit retro-futuristic look. It seems to remind us: Don’t try so hard to fit in, when you were born to stand out!
As we all know, perfect detail is important than everything else in the men’s wear. Simons’ s design recognized the commercial need for aesthetic pleasure; his works underscored the importance of this even when operating in the tradition of pared-down, minimalist tailoring. Simons can be creative and not deal with stereotypes. When other designers make things to become bigger and bigger, Simons ‘s mentality is to make it small, but impressive. It just likes his childhood that he wants to show in this collection. Every thing was sensitive in details, such as the layering collars – the under layers have been showed bit by bit – such small things easy to be overlook in usual, but it does exist like things around us. The bright cut drop-shouldered coats and sweatshirts and models’ tilda-like hairdo, which covered the face just like a vein, were implied grow-up of the young people and even reminded the signature style of Martin Margiela… those can be defined that was a sect of minimalism.
And, in many cases, the front of almost everything, but Simons tried to break the rule and make the back more exciting, such as the collars with hair-decoration details that it going down with the colors and the back view of the amazing animal-hide pattern dyed coats. It’ s an interesting change of men’s wear from cautious and serious to become more considering the attitude. The change also reflected in the new-cut schoolboy-ness shorts, which was throughout the whole show. To wearing the very tight-fitting shorts and showing the sexy legs of guys that catch all of the eyes. And, more fun, the sporty sneakers enhanced the style and will become the new manifesto to menswear and must-have item of younger or Grups in following seasons. It made balance with the suiting and the hip-hop cap - All of radical mix and match would be the new fashion statement that never found before.
In Simons’ own words: “Dress codes and gestures and attitudes have always inspired me, as has youth culture in general, although now I question it more.” the new manifesto to menswear.
Indeed, dissimilar with the past season, which used insipid colors used and simple fabrication, Simons refreshed the energy to his Fall/ Winter 2012-2013 collection, that he applied various unusual colors in an unconventional palette emerges. For instant, bright and clashing colors like Parisian blue, crimson, juxtaposed with rough hues like black, concrete and shale. Unexpected additions of pale yellow and hunter green are essential to manipulate the harmonies. Sportswear base fabrics were reflected the urban living with tear resistant, splash-proof and breathable attributes to sparkle and brought the active mode and reaffirmed the return of youth culture and rejection of traditional menswear.
Trying to summarized the work of Raf Simons in this season, you may discover a recurrent theme with so many ideas in the look, yet each detail told a very different story, almost as if it’s written by another hand when compared with the past season, which created the monotonous gentlemen look, was not really reflected the spirits of the brand which showed how innovative designs can embrace new technologies and fabrics and rethink traditional structures with the main theme of youth-cult. He was always looked at the world around him with the central idea for the collection rooted in reality and drawn from personal experience. Such characterizes can be usually found in his overall style but not a single signature piece and each season with deep concept that rather just used playful details to make the garment. Those things can be found in the very beginning of his collections, which were always immersed in an atmosphere of childhood but chic. Simons seems looking back in order to find a way to move forward with confidence and style and create a new men’s wardrobe between the reality of waking life and the surrealism of the collective unconscious. Just go under, go over, go through, but never give up! It’s the innocents!